Wandering Thoughts

February 24, 2009


Filed under: Surfing — terence @ 6:58 pm

The surf’s bunk. But the three guys out are all good surfers. So I’m standing there watching the waves limp in out of the grey-green sea. The onshore’s strong enough to be tearing the occasional whitecap from the water, and cold enough for me to be hunched, trying to stay warm. Next to me, sitting on a bench are a family. The old man has a winter white beard and a tatoo on his leg. Mum is worn out, middle-aged. They’re watching the surf cause the kids want to. The elder child’s maybe eleven and pretty excited by it all, but the younger kid, seven perhaps, with a tom-boy’s hair, is jubilant – laughing and screaming at every ride. And I’m thinking, remembering myself a long long time ago, and hoping that she gets to grow up to be a surfer.


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